Flashback and Flash Forward
In the final newsletter focused on Black History Month, I pay homage to a makeup line from the past, a new upstart and a Black-owned line from my youth. Plus, the SMH moments of the week.
I’ll Never Forget Naomi Sims Cosmetics
When you have been around the beauty and media industries as long as I have, what excites you might not excite your friends and family, especially when they are not in the business. Meeting Mrs. Estee Lauder, crickets. Have a one-on-one lunch with Mrs. Georgette Klinger at Le Cirque (or insert any other meals at fancy restaurants), yawn. Eight years of bylines and work at Elle, “That's nice.” After my first byline in Essence, “Let me tell all my friends.” Writing copy for Iman, when she launched her cosmetics line, “I’m impressed.” Interviewing Kareem Abdul-Jabbar for Ebony, “Woah, you’ve made it” (sports fanatics only.) The one thing that everyone loved was the plethora of products.
Okay, I am being a little factitious about these reactions (except for the products), but they aren’t too far off. . But early in my career, I wouldn’t know how meaningful it would be to have met Naomi Sims. I remember going to her office to see her cosmetics line. The packaging was sleek and had gold accents, and the outer packaging had turquoise accents. She had already done wigs and an author. She was taking on makeup, skincare, and fragrance next.
As I walked through those offices, chatted briefly with her, and sampled her products that she was a “first.” An internationally known Black woman who created an eponymous product line. She had success, but while her target customers understood the need for such products, it wasn’t long-lasting. Some may be quick to count it among the lines that catered to Black women that came and went in the late 80s and early 90s. But because it was from Naomi Sims, we can’t discount its significance. In many ways, she was the blueprint.
I wonder what she would think of all the Black female-led beauty brands today?
What’s Better Than One Beauty Brand? Two!! Thread Beauty is Coming in Hot!
The founding team of The Lip Bar was up to big things to celebrate their tenth anniversary. First, there were those dope billboards “thanking” one of the Sharks. With CEO, Melissa Butler, and Creative Director, Rosco Spears, playfully pointing in front of one. Then there is the Bawse Bundle features a new gloss of their universally flattering red, along with the coordinating liquid matte, a balm, and the pencil. (I already ordered mine, I don’t know about you.)
But chile, when I peeped the new line, Thread Beauty, geared toward Gen-Z humans, I was practically giddy. They came out the gate with 24 shades of complexion sticks. I love the no-fuss application choices throughout the line. I met Melissa when I was at Essence back in 2012. She was still making the products in her home. To paraphrase the Virginia Slims tagline, “y’all have come a long way, baby!” Melissa and Rosco, Naomi would be proud!
The Remix Episodes Are Here!!
In keeping with our flashback theme, we are doing a series of remix episodes on the pod. Even if you’re a regular pod listener, you may not catch all of them (unless it’s a serial show or true crime genre). So I am flashing back to a few episodes while we get a new batch ready. Episode 59 features Nikita Wilson, VP of Product Development at OUAI. (It is a new role since our chat in ep 15, the original episode). This second airing struck a chord with me because I am clearer about the show’s focus. And if you have ever interviewed Ni’Kita, or have heard her speak about products, you know she is dropping gems. Imagine if she had kept her state job, it would have been the beauty industry’s loss.
Even If You Think You Have Something to
Say, Please Say, Less
If there were ever examples of watching what you say this week would rate high in the rankings. First, bring your attention to Dr. Jeffrey Lieberman, a psychiatrist and department chair at Columbia’s Valego’s College of Physicians and Surgeons and psychiatrist-in-chief at Columbia University Irving Medical Center/NewYork-Presbyterian Hospital. He was suspended after tweeting that model Nyakim Gatwech, of South Sudanese descent, was a “freak of nature" because of her richly melanated skin. He’s a doctor, a man of science. Make it make sense. And in case you’re wondering, “You’re pretty for a Black girl,” or “You’re pretty for a dark skin woman,” are NOT compliments.
When in doubt, and even if you think you know, please say less.
I Want to Know: What Made You Leave?
The Estée Lauder Companies suspended John Dempsey for his Instagram post. We shall see how this develops. I could say more, but I am following my advice.
But the incident made me notice something else. When there are events that require companies to take a stand, it triggers many people who have experienced gaslighting, microaggressions, and racism on the job. Reading some of the comments on pages like Estee Laundry or Outta the Gloss (back when they were active) about people’s experiences in the beauty industry is heartbreaking and vexing.
So how are the beauty industry’s DEI efforts going? Are they performative or making a difference? When CEW had their first summit devoted to the subject, many Black professionals, primarily women, made it known that they had experienced some challenging, even disheartening situations on the job. Yet, the people who took the survey were still working in beauty. But we don’t talk enough about why folks decide to leave. And I would love to hear what causes BIPOC pros to quit the industry or a company. If the issues are never discussed, how can they be rectified?
We all know recruitment, development, and retention must work together if we are going to create a more equitable industry. If only one of these things is effective, how will we make the industry inclusive? I thought about doing a survey of my own on this subject, and I may down the line. But until then, you can leave me a voicemail here. You can do so anonymously if you like.
For The Love of Beauty: An Ode to Vera Moore Cosmetics
At the beginning of my podcast episodes, I often ask my guests about the first products they remember purchasing. Well, I want to share the first line that made an impression. Growing up in St. Albans, Queens, the Green Acres Mall was the closest shopping venue to our home. That is where actress Vera Moore (on the soap "Another World”) opened her first store. I think I was still in high school. I know I didn’t wear foundation or any makeup at that point. I remember the line because she had a salesperson named Cindy whose face was always meticulously made up. A glamour girl. She was my older sister’s classmate, so we would stop by their kiosk to say hello. Back then, I had no idea that Vera Moore Cosmetics, who started with her husband, was the first Black business in the Green Acres Mall. When Duane Reade was doing its Look Boutique concept a decade ago, it included the line. But what is impressive is that Ms. Moore is still in business, running it with her family, more than four decades later. Bravo!